art one. St. Petersburg-Pakistan
Root of the way.
Starting from m Moscow. Andrew Hikolaevich, with a lady who appeared at the venue, called me a bastard for the purpose of the meeting on the outskirts of the city. All live in the civilian world. My decision was due to just – I started to work without going home. As our transportation advocates shabby Five '94. A few minutes later came formation of Andrei – the parents and what is relative. Skeptically examining the car, we wish good luck and we went to Moscow. Has four. I, Andrew, and Dima to Galya. It turned out two unpleasant facts: something very strange behaved steering. Sausage machine, very well. Second, a strangely attenuated lamp. All night Dima growled at me for preparation of the car. Steering and frightened me. They decided to travel to Moscow and visit the service. Sleeping in the backseat of the five was not so bad, and made blankets and pillows are welcome. However, fatigue may be impacted recent weeks. Only in Moscow, we had to ride four times. Of all the countries requiring a visa, the consulate in St. Petersburg were only in India. Pakistan and Iran issued a visa in Moscow, with a creak and a bunch of bucks. Now everything is back and the car carries us to the adventure. Perhaps this is the biggest adventure of my life. In the trunk collected things, taken two cameras, in the back seat cushion and two blankets. Our machine was purchased specifically for the expedition. The most interesting thing is that I went on it for quite some time before leaving and never sausage. In any case, no turning back. Ahead of the night and the road. Overboard is pretty cool. Learn more about loans online!
Repairs on the road
Ryskov on the road, five, nevertheless, moved to Moscow. Rattling suspension, she moved to meet dawn. Ha street, even though it was very cold. Turning to the second ring of Moscow, we were on a narrow asphalt path along which we traveled, and the capital. They went on Kashirskoye, which is a kind of highway. Harod of cars overtake us with amazement staring at five, which occupied nearly two series of movements and prowling with an amplitude of 2-3 meters. During the ride on the Moscow region, we were stopped by traffic police three times. All three times they let us go in peace. Then we visited the cafe poshiba average with a disgusting service and went in search of service. Service found quickly. After inspecting the car, the master said that it is necessary to change the suspension and gum to tighten the steering gear. However, to do nothing they can not boss, has the honor to dine at the moment. In anticipation of this important person and we stayed at the service. Naturally, we counted the chief arrived a lot of repair: replacing ball, salenblokov, seals the rear axle and the crank shaft, silencer, damper and a long tie rod. Of all the works have been elected by those who belonged to the front suspension. we bought the necessary parts to more than 600 rubles and paid $ 60, 100 p. for repairs, because we Ruble safely over. Concerned about the flow of oil from the rear crankshaft seal (though not the stream is flowing, but after an expensive semi-synthetics) and brakes. Ha left front old shoes on the right front corner of the slide cracked. Not looking at the nasty behavior of the machine did not kill me for this its preparation, but only obmaterili. Although, as we have been asked to buy all new parts, Dima began to drive the wave. So, we bought a new lever and brake hose. It took several hours. We parted with the sum is equivalent to $ 100 and have not got a car. Of course, this repair is not over. When replacing a shock absorber, it was found that the broken spring. We bought new and ready for a few more hours of waiting. Soon moved into the principal's office – the only warm place. Ha street, it began to snow. From remzony heard blows. Outside the room we saw the mechanic sitting on the engine and strokes on the last scrap. We realized that either it came to replace the tie rod, or decided to finish the car so as not to suffer. With this in mind, we returned to a warm room. In the city of Kashira, where we repaired, it was getting dark. We still have departed. The road was snowing, a lamp is not burned, the car continued to sausage. We drove blindly colliding with our neighbors. Lights are not desired to be governed, and the muzzle climbed machine after replacing the springs. We persisted in the way. So we met the new day journey.
Hastupivshie day taught us a lot of surprises. Root was initiated by the fact that I was awakened by Dima and said that we ran out of brakes. I shone the torch on the wheel and under the car, but saw no bruises. Deciding to test the brakes himself, I abruptly pushed the pedal at a speed of 10 kilometers. Attaching the lower control arm bushing, with the sad sound of a dry, robbed us hope to reach by car Hepala. The miracle had two components: the wheel is not even fully formed and did not bring any harm, breaking the spring and shock absorber, and, finally, there was a problem around the clock next to the cafe. Ha was cold outside and we retired to the cafe. Has given to drink tea with brandy, we warmed up, and kinder. We decided that we will continue the path in any case: by car, or without it. However Dima said he wanted right now (3:00 am) to go to the non-stop service. And really went there for a passing car. I woke up at the same table about 6 am. Dima has already returned and was again with us. Seeing us in inaction, he expelled Hikolaevicha in my community on the street in order to go to the other side of Dima. For service to the proven Dima side does not work. Ha street was -6. We froze, stopped and had a feud shamanic dance around the car to warm up. After 15 minutes, we picked up the Ford Scorpio and drove to the post with the concentration of traffic police services around the latter. Services were treacherously closed and GAI OFFICER was sluggish, and frozen. Not a solo nahlebavshi, we went back. There were almost no cars and we had covered good 3 kilometers on foot, until we are picked up by KAMAZ with manure. At this point, we are so cold, that were ready to go, not only in the cabin, but, in fact, in the cargo. The driver of the sacrifice demanded of us, and drove up to our car. I thought about the situation, we decided to try to fix the lever at least and snot. As soon as we started on this exciting venture as we visited the eastern people. He told us about the missed first trimester GAI OFFICER from the post. With it you managed to find a tractor to tow a car with spopobny turning wheel. We tied it to the contraption on the tailgate with the tractor and he picked up the car so that the front wheels hanging in the air. I'll take, so the car to the service at the traffic police, we left her in the parking lot. The good-natured (but obviously not beskrystny) Southerner – Oleg we exchanged $ 100 and promised to repair the car for our return.
The triumph of hitchhiking
We ate in the cafe at the office, got out to the last, putting on the yellow jackets, inherited free then the number of industrial parties. Most of the items had been left in the car. They took only what you need. The notion of a necessary bit of all different. My backpack was pulling a four kilograms, with Andrew, he weighed 12 pounds. We stopped and rushed Quartet in search of new adventures. The car was driven 60 kilometers, and we landed on the cold wind blown crossroads. There Dima persuading to Galya take us with him to Volgograd three drivers of trucks coming from Peter. Riding on this truck I was a novelty. Very high seating position, vibration, and no sense of speed. Scania-142 was about 80 miles per hour. The driver was silent and valiantly coped with the ten-box. So we spent the day in the cockpit sheltered us filigree, something like a railway compartment. Andrew, basically, was sleeping on the couch and I sat on a chair. Hado noted that the wagon is very sausage on domestic wells. Cab car made on a swinging and pmnevmopodushke protivotakte to vibrations of the machine itself. Ha the same pillows and seats installed. Bench, which is located behind the seats, pillows did not have sausage and it is not an example stronger. Trucks slowed traffic police at every position, and collected tribute. The drivers for this much swearing. Dime with Galya was luckier – their car had a TV and a tape recorder. In general, the truck drove slowly. Stopped to eat, drink tea, check the oil level. Hochyu when we almost got to Volgograd, the idea of drivers sleep without entering the city.
Life on board
Has landed on the highway in a small two nights. Landscape complement Lukoil gas station (not a cafe, shop and telephone), parking of trucks and Cafe (Closed). Ha Street was traditionally cold. We again began to tremble. 20 minutes later, the column stopped muzhichek one on an old Nissan with German, for some reason, the numbers. We begged him to take us to the Andryukha to Volgograd. Muzhichek took. In Volgograd, we found a taxi back to the column, were reunited and return to the station. Volgograd Railway Station was built in the Stalin-style. There, we found that there is a train Kharkov – Baku. The train turned out to be expensive. Compartment ticket cost 1500R. We got tickets and sat down in the station cafe and began gently to shit, and pin up each other. The station was neat and nemnogolyuden. To photograph the inside of his ministers did not allow local law enforcement. Bought wine, brandy, and a light meal, we went to the platform and boarded the train. The fact that we have not slept properly for several nights, it was pretty significant argument does not hold many gatherings. I woke first. The train went over the steppe. So he drove to a small town. That's got to untidy platform. That went on. Ha street, sunny, but today the weather is not so important. Today we will spend on the train. Slowly, he knocks the wheels on the rails the Volga Railroad. We found that, in fact, little is known about Azerbaijan. Yet it turned out that we had little food and a little more drinking. The train came to Astrakhan. We bought beer, food, and huge fish. At the time of purchase fish train started and I barely had time to grab her. In the train were small talk, pilos beer. There, in Astrakhan, we bought playing cards and Iranian dates. The train dragged slowly. Outside the window floated the steppe. The temperature was quite comfortable. Ha one of the stations the train was detained and on the car zashnyryal element. He boldly opened the locked compartment with his key, and looked back. As it turned out Andrew, looking at the hole in the wall of the compartment, an element located in the adjacent compartment. Clearly visible through the hole of his hat. One felt the approach of Chechnya. We Andryukha went to the dining car. There were mattresses and what that person 10 Azerbaijanis were talking and playing backgammon. After drinking a beer and bought pomegranate juice, we returned to the coupe. Pomegranate juice here is inexpensive and superb taste. Galya headache and she longed to go home.
Recorded by Andrei
Lord, how I'm tired of going on the train. Around one ayzery, I have the impression that we are the only Russian in the next 700 miles. When we came in Astrakhan for food, I felt like a sore thumb. Be damned, I say now, these poor days of the events, though perfectly aware that one day they will seem to me the best in life. Kizlyar – 10 km. from Chechnya. In our closed compartments inside are the cops, well, in the sense, Hachiko in the form of Cop. Ha broken Russian, they want to find out if we do not drink vodka. Sipping brandy from a flask, I say vodka we drank none. Only beer. Ha question of where we're going, we answer that in Baku, and then to Iran. Accompanying his farewell joke – "you probably Chechen rebels," they go. We sat drinking more.
The border with Azerbaijan
Day rolled by. We were in a compartment conductor came and took the passport. Daylight. On the right there are low, wooded, mountain. Flashed on the left the Caspian Sea. The train arrived at the station of Derbent. The station was a very well maintained place. Hizkie peronchiki and zdanitsa. The train stopped. Dima and my attempt to go into the lobby to smoke was suppressed conductor – the border. All was quiet. Dima took up housekeeping with Galya. Only trash Dime has not given to throw the conductor, who, like a mountain eagle, took up a position in the hallway and drove all the places. After a while came two – customs and border guard. The border guard gave the passport and customs officers looked under the seat. Ha that they are gone. The train stood for a little more and started to move. In the distance a glimpse of the mountain again. The vegetation gradually changed in the steppe. We went past the train with four cars. After traveling quite a bit, we once again stood at the endless vineyards. Defended, the train arrived in Azerbaijan. He passed the guard, flipped through our passports and asked who we let that wanted a good rest and disappeared. The form of their own, of course similar to ours, but new and clean. Then came the customs officer with a pointer. This pointer, he methodically tapped place coupe, which can be something to hide. As things are, however, he did not look. Then came another old customs. He just looked in the coupe and walked away. The train was abominably long. Then it all just started and arrived at the first station. By train ran traders. Ha each car they had more than 30, which was much more than a half-empty passenger cars. Offered cigarettes, soft drinks, vodka, local food – bread with herbs what is just bread, chicken, yellow, and for some reason all the stuffed peppers and tomatoes, cheese type FITAC, eggs and vegetables. Were purchased eggs (10r. – 4 pieces), a large tortilla with greens (10r.), just a cake (10r.), cheese (10r. a bag of 300 gram). When we all were there, we were in a compartment cop came and said, roughly, as follows: "Oh! Zdraste! You have a holiday soon! All is well! Yes? Ho better off without us? Listen! Let's not go there passport here! Give the money as not sorry! " What is commonly understood by "not sorry," I did not know and gave the cop 40R. He left very satisfied, and was read in his eyes that he did not expect half of the acquired. Ha station hung Azeri flags and names written in Latin. Dollars all over. Hado bucks to change the local currency. We drove some more. Andrew prudently locked compartments at each station, but the local cops do not bursting. Played cards for "someone to go to ask the conductor how much is left to go." I like voditsya, lost and went to find out. Ha question "Where are we now?" I got the answer "in Azerbaijan, yes." Ha question "How soon will Baku?" I got the answer "3 hours, yes." After about a promised three o'clock train arrived in the capital of Azerbaijan.
Taxis in Azerbaijan
In Baku, we took a taxi to the pencil. He watered us with tea and persuaded to take us to a $ 50 Astara. Of course, he claimed that the buses do not go today, and spend the night in Baku terribly expensive, and that the buses are overcrowded. We have broken down. The car turned out to be pennies. Out of fuel economy, the man with the twisted trunk of her roof. During the visit to Baku, we have changed the dollar (exchange rate 49 500 to the dollar). While the taxi driver to deal with the luggage, Andrei popped into a drugstore and bought 8 vials of tincture of hawthorn, with a view to the transport of the latter in Iran. Bottles of 25 ml. worth 1000 manat per share. In agreement with the taxi driver was to visit edalni, where he took us, talking about that on the track is much cheaper. Baku is replete with domestic cars and narrow streets. Baku looks like something any Turkish town. So vigorous penny flew to the track, having made a short tour around the city. Looking at the Caspian Sea, with numerous oil derricks and dirty, we moved along the coast. The driver drove his car with a fairly decent speed, expertly circling the huge pit, sometimes occurring on a relatively good road. Hekotorye time, I suffered the lack of toilets. As a result, has not reached the cafe, I was asked to stop. Beautiful clean building stood slightly to one side of the road and had a path of stone slabs. But on the designation of office, had to ask the taxi driver. It soon became clear that the roads in Azerbaijan, very nasty. If Baku, they still, somehow, been repaired, the more roads were broken as if for a couple of years it went to the tanks. However, the car moved at a speed of about 120-130, ottormazhivayas continuously to zero at the deepest wells, leaving on the counter before otmigivayuschimisya and inhibitory trucks. Light vehicles gathered in flocks, blinking distant when overtaking. At last we stopped to eat. Has grand fed lamb, cheese, local wine and other goodies. They took us to 75,000 manat. In general, the manat, as it seemed to me the most is not quoted currency. Most of all, the dollar is valued, then the ruble, and then manat. According speak Russian, not all. Gasoline is 1600 manat per liter 92nd, 1400 at 76th, 750 for petrol and 1800 for the 95th. More than in Russia. This in a country where oil rigs more than beaches! Where to go petrodollars, Azeris, as well as we do not know. In Astara arrived late at night. The city was deserted, and the lights. The taxi driver several times asked the way. Rare car willingly stayed on otmigivanie and the inclusion of turn signals.
So we were in total darkness, among the gas stations closed, dark garages and car.