ourney from India to Nepal.
(12-13 May 2004)
Last night, friends said goodbye to Delhi and went to Nepal.
The route is as follows:
Delhi – Gorakhpur – Sonuali (frontier Indian Village) – Bairahawa (frontier village of Nepal) – Kathmandu (the capital of Nepal).
So, first you need to get to Gorakhpur from Delhi.
This can be done on a train in 2554 (VAISHALI EXPRESS) that is sent from the station "New Delhi" at 19:45.
Ticket in Sleeper Class is 317 Indian rupees (Rs.), which equals approximately $ 7.4.
When you buy a ticket it is best to ask the top shelf (UB). I've asked and have not regretted.
I do not know, always have them all so crowded, but in "Sleeper" where I was driving the car in general – do not go, do not breathe. And the thing is that many are buying
train ticket in the general (General Class), and then bursting into "sleeper" and just pay extra conductor. As a result, Sleeper Class is no different from the common, except that tickets
twice as expensive. If you get a lower shelf, this means that for the whole trip you can not even lie down, legs stretched out, for your fellow passengers with tickets to the general car just did not recognize your rights. For what reason? Because many of them, too! On the top shelf is much more comfortable, you look at the top of this whole nightmare, read a little book. However, there are full unwelcome passengers, believing that there is nothing wrong with that. Typically, first try to get into, arranged comfortably,
and then look at you, grinning, as if asking, "Nitsche?". But most do not even ask. Therefore it is better to stop such violations at the very beginning – confidently and categorically. If this whole "extreme" you do not like it, buy a ticket in the car class and enjoy the comfort of AC3. This is approximately 2 times more expensive "sleeper."
In short he reached Gorakhpur. It's a relatively small (by Indian standards) small town near the border with Nepal. Immediately begin to stick to the station wishing to help to get to Nepal. But they better not mess with.
After asking for intelligent people, where is the bus station (Bus Stand), 10 minutes later was sitting in the bus. And the 3.5 hours we reached the village Sonuali, which is just on the border with Nepal.
Bus is best to choose the state (Government Bus). There's cheaper and the price (of 47 Rs. Is $ 1.10) and runs on a schedule. Private entrepreneurs are also trying to collect more money, so do not shove into your "bass" unreal number of passengers – will not go.
So, we are in the village Sonuali. 300 meters walked up to the Indian immigration office, where they should put a stamp in your passport, proof of a legal exit from India. The staff of this office (such as border guards, but all in civilian clothes) with a little run over, but not without a hidden joy, and asked where my "Embarcabation Card". This is a form that is filled by foreigners on arrival in Delhi. But I do remember that a piece of paper at the airport and no one gave me. They say that you lost a pier, and show the cards are already filled with other tourists (Japanese, British, Israeli and Dutch).
- So, with your supposed penalty 2750Rs. (It's $ 60) and we will issue you a new one. – Summed up the officer. But it was evident that all this show and they just want to bring down the coin to a naive foreigner. Well, I also started playing the play, but your saying that I do not have the money, and I do not know what to do. He sat at the table, with a sad kind of put his head with his hands. Then the officer asked quietly:
- Can you give anything?
- 10 Rs. (0,25 $) you're happy – I asked.
- Well, at least buy us "kuldrinka" – doomed the official said, and immediately took up his duties, making the necessary entries in the log and put a stamp in my passport "DEPARTURE 13-04-2004".
We drank with him a little Pepsi ", talked about life. Border guard wished me good-bye and I went to Nepal.
Passing the border between India and Nepal should closely monitor the inscriptions, and it is possible to run the border, so did not notice. The most interesting thing that you are at the same time no one will stop, because there are as many people up and down Broadway hodyut.
But it is better to gently put down all the stamp-printing in order to avoid further trouble.
Nepalese immigration officer greeted me very cordially, joyfully exclaiming, "Welcome to Nepal!". Then he added:
- However, we now have a small problem: the roads are blocked, buses to Kathmandu temporarily because the attacks do not go maoitov (Nepalese extremists, followers of Mao Zedong). It may take a day 7 or 8, but still "Welcome!"
Visa to Nepal is $ 30 for 60 days (or 1,500 Rs. Making out at the Embassy of Nepal in New Delhi) If travel to Nepal for the first time. When you renew a visa or arrive in the second or third time, you will be charged $ 30 too, but only to open a visa for 30 days.
In any case, need color photographs of 3 to 4. Without them, can not do.
So, all the formalities behind us and now I have the legal right to stay in Nepal for 60 days. Prior to July 11 need to leave this wonderful country.
I asked the clerk:
- And if you miss it?
- If one day late, it's okay, but if too long … it's okay, just a money pay that's all. – Said the official.
Even in Nepal, Indian rupees exchanged a little on the Nepalese rupee. Their ratio is approximately as follows: for 100 Indian rupees give 160 Nepalese.
Generally in Nepal, Indian rupee is also in vogue, although it may not officially.
Do not run only the notes of 500 Rs. 1000 and Rs.
Nepalese village on the border with India called Bairahawa. 3 km to the bus station, so I take a rickshaw for 30 Nepalese rupees and going to the bus station.
At the bus station is preparing to send a single bus.
Boarding passengers with something like assault on the fortress!
Despite the fact that all people are trying to get crowded through the door, a window onto the roof …
It is worth such a fuss!
The driver and conductor are trying to fend off those who are apparently now destined to be left behind. Demand is clearly outstripping supply
Do not get them right. Time – two hours of the day, and this is the last bus for today. And all of maoitskogo strike.
A few words about what a strike.
Thus, the Strike is the original form of political struggle
which is used in Nepal, the followers of Mao Zedong (maoity).
For example, the government put forward demands
and in order to confirm the seriousness of the intentions
declared a strike.
During the strike movement in the region, where he held prohibited. Of course not by the state, and maoitami. Non-"naughty" cars are written-maoitami special agents, and then explode.
But while these stocks do not have the noise of cars, because they all go on foot or ride a bike that is useful for good health
However, even during the strike, some buses continue to ply the country because they are not afraid of any sharp turns, no breaks, no maoity. And they need money, so the price of the ticket in a bus or jeep is multiplied by 10 and then 20. That's it!
So, I sit on the bus could not (I did not even try).
I had to somehow be determined.
In fact, near the bus station there are a few hotels, but they need to be placed in the money that is not extreme.
So I went to the bus station waiting room and did what he did all Nepalis, my brothers in misfortune: we have tidied up a bit, swept, spread mats, podstilochki, near which put their handbags and suitcases (who it was). All valuables (passport and money) have been with me
I went a little walk, explore local attractions.
Near the bus station is a small (one might say tiny) chapel-hramik. In this small set mandirchike deity Ganapati.
Ganesha – a patron of the arts and sciences with an elephant face, son of Shiva and Parvati.
He removes all obstacles: on the path of spiritual development,
in life in general.
Personally, I'm just delighted with Ganesha. Why not? I can not give it no rational explanation.
Housed next to me began to sing the mantra that he knew. At the end of it all, why I came to India and Nepal? After 20-30 minutes of anxiety left my mind.
After some time I sat down to Nepalis. One of them, a guy my age told me in Hindi: "You are what is strange foreigner. Too calm and blissful "
Between us struck up a conversation on the topic of yoga and meditation. So passed the whole day, and then another, it became clear that he is the master bus, which leaves tomorrow morning in Kathmandu, despite threats maoitov. Failed to agree on almost gostsene, twenty times cheaper than all the other passengers (shhh … it's a secret!).
The bus people were nemeryano because climbed onto the roof and
insurance attached with ropes. Young people who rode the bus decided to ride on the roof is cool, and five others made me company.
There is a thrill! (In the sense of traveling on the roof of the bus). Speed, the wind whistling in my ears, canyons, mountains, jungles – krasotischa indescribable!
The only pity is that the hat has blown off while riding.
Ah, the good was Panama, corporate, real nike …
In the course of a bus route, nearly every half hour we checked the soldiers at checkpoints. All passengers coming out with things and took a sort of customs inspection.
Fortunately for foreigners in this procedure is not necessary to participate.
On the roadside are not uncommon – charred and wrecked cars. I'm just so used to see on TV, in the Chechen chronicles.
The purpose of my trip to Kathmandu, among other things, was the discovery of a visa to India.
My six-month tourist visa is nearly expired, and travel visas in India are not subject to renewal. Therefore, we must come to the capital of Nepal – Kathmandu and open another.
It might seem simple – went to the Embassy of India, filled the questionnaire, pinned him to the two pictures, pay the visa fee and the trick … Yeah, as it is not so! So how do you open a visa outside their country of residence, they must first make a request in your Russia, Ukraine or where you are there. As well as a request to India. Anyway, they do it is not particularly want to, because they want baksheesh. And from you, they will not take bribes – are afraid of.
Therefore, to know the address of the Indian Embassy is not necessary. A need to know local people, experienced and proven, this is the entree into the Indian embassi.
Thank God found a man and two weeks annual student visa has taken pride of place in my passport.
In general the five o'clock we were at the bus station in Kathmandu.
From there went to the Vaishnava Ashram ISKCON, which is in Buddhanilkante. It is a suburb in the north of Kathmandu.
The ashram is located in a picturesque location. Range of mountains covered with forests and small waterfalls. The air is clean and filled with the singing of exotic birds.
Through the territory adjacent to the monastery flows the sacred river in Vishnumati. In this wonderful place I was lucky enough to live a month and a half.
What else can be said about Nepal?
This state is located between India and China. Perhaps that's why architecture, music, and do face people of Nepal are the elements of these two countries and the world's great cultures.
Virtually all educated people in Nepal speak good English.
Nepalis are kshatriyskoy nation (tobish warriors).
Many men from Nepal are (or were) in the British Army, so make the house (apartment), a good pension for life.
House prices and consumer goods by about 30-40% higher than in India.
Output in Nepal on Saturday, as well as in Israel.
Interesting place – the city of Bhaktapur.
It is located a few kilometers from Kathmandu.
Bhaktapur is a town very mystical,
because the layout of the city itself is arranged in a tantric way. There are still a few temples where animal sacrifices are tantric.
There is no right to enter except the priests. We were shown the palace of King, Tantric, who lived in the 19th century.
When the British took over Bhaktapur, the king went to his palace and just disappeared into thin air.
He was never able to grasp. -Believe it or not!